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212 Lafayette Road, Portsmouth, NH 03801Monday – Friday: 7 a.m. – 4 p.m.(603) 555-0100

Stone walls

Walls built to the frost line

A wall is mostly what you can't see. The stone on top is the last part of a build that starts three or four feet down.

We build

  • Property lines, gardens and field walls

  • Retaining walls and terraces

  • Piers, gate posts and house walls

A weathered dark stone wall stands behind a flagstone surface with misty trees beyond

Kinds of wall

Pick the wall for the place

  • A wall of rough brown and tan stones laid in uneven courses

    Dry-laid fieldstone

    Stone fitted by hand with no mortar. It moves a little with the frost and goes back.

  • A wall of irregular orange and grey fieldstones set in mortar

    Mortared fieldstone

    A tighter, formal face. It needs a footing poured below the frost.

  • A wall of rough grey and brown granite blocks

    Granite block

    Squared granite in courses, for terraces and long straight runs.

  • Curved stone retaining walls form grassy terraces with steps in a park

    Terraces in a slope

    Curved or straight walls that turn a bank into usable ground.

Below the frost

Two walls, one winter

The stone can look the same on the day the crew leaves. The difference shows up in March.

Two walls, one winter
Laid on the surfaceBuilt to the frost line
BaseLaid on the surfaceStone set on topsoil or a few inches of gravelBuilt to the frost lineDug below the frost line, filled with compacted crushed stone
DrainageLaid on the surfaceSoil packed against the back, so water sits thereBuilt to the frost lineClean stone behind the wall, with a pipe on taller walls
LeanLaid on the surfaceStacked straight upBuilt to the frost lineEach course set back into the bank
Through-stonesLaid on the surfaceA thin face over loose fillBuilt to the frost lineLong stones tying the face to the fill
After MarchLaid on the surfaceA lean, a bulge or open jointsBuilt to the frost lineThe wall goes back where it was

How it goes

A wall in four steps

  • 01

    Walk the line

    We stake the wall, probe for ledge and roots, and note where water runs.

  • 02

    Dig and build the base

    Trench to below the frost line, then crushed stone in lifts, compacted at each lift.

  • 03

    Lay the courses

    Largest stones first, each one set back, with through-stones tying the face to the fill.

  • 04

    Drain and cap

    Clean stone behind the wall, backfill, then caps and a walk-through with you.

Questions

About walls

How tall can a wall be before it needs a permit?

The height is set by your town, and it is often around four feet for a wall that holds back soil. We check with your building department before we quote, and tell you if an engineer is needed.

Dry-laid or mortared?

Dry-laid walls drain through themselves and move with the frost, so they suit field walls and gardens. Mortared walls look tighter and need a footing, so they suit piers, house walls and formal steps.

Can you match an old wall?

Often. If the stone is still on site we reuse it. If not, we bring samples to hold up against the old wall before you decide.

Will the wall last?

A wall built on a base below the frost, with drainage behind it, is built to last. No one can promise a number of years, and we won't put one in writing without terms.

Site visits

Walk the site with us

Leave your name and cell number. We text you from the shop to set a day, and Hugo or Katie come out with a tape and a probe bar.

The written scope comes after the visit, with the stone and the base listed.